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Bespoke
Lasts
Shoe & Boot
Ugg Boots
Dictionary
Shoes
Handmade
Contents
Preface iii
About the Author v
Introduction vi
Table of Contents vii
Part A, Last Designing
1
    Tools and Aids
1
          Shoemakers' Designing Square
1
          Marked Wheel
1
          Measuring Tape(metric)
1
          Shoe Side Tape
1
    Measurements and Information Needed for the Designing Process
1
          Marking the Foot Outline
2
          Taking the Foot Measurements
2
    Shoe and Last Sizes
3
          Metric System
3
          Paris Point System
3
          English Measuring System
3
    Foot Length and Last Length
5
    Width of Volume of the Last
5
    Measurements for Insole Designing
5
    Formulas for Calculating Measurements for Last Making
5
          Men's Lasts
6
          Ladies' Lasts
6
    Designing the Insole for a Last
6
          Designing the Insole for a Man's Last using a Foot Outline
6
          Designing the Insole for a Lady's Last using a Foot Outline
10
          Designing the Insole for a Child's Last using a Foot Outline
11
          Designing the Insole for a Man's Geometrically Without Foot Outline
12
    Last Profile
14
          Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the First Method
15
          Constructing the Back Section of the Last
16
          Constructing the Front Part of the last Profile
16
          Designing the Back View of a Man's Last
17
          Designing the Profile for a Man's Last using the Second Method
17
Part B, Making of the Last
21
    Materials Used in Last Making
21
    Tools Used in Last Making
21
    Making A Laminated Block
21
    Using a Laminated Block
21
    Using a Solid Block
22
    Shaping an Insole
22
    Marking the Highline
23
          Inside Highline
23
          Outside Highline
23
    Marking the Top Section of the Block
23
          Removing Excess Wood
24
    Contour or Profile Gauge
24
          How to use the Contour Gauge
25
    Finishing Stage
26
    Checking the Measurements
26
          Short Heel Measurement
26
          Long Heel Measurement
26
          Instep Measurement
26
          Waist Measurement
27
          Joint Measurement
27
          Toe Height
27
          Toe Spring
27
          Finishing
27
    Breaking the Last
27
          Making the Back Section of the Last Removable
27
          Cutting Out the Front Cone Profile Block
27
          Hook
28
          Leather Hinged Last
29
          Last Maker's Block and Knife
30
Part C, Tables
31
    Table 1   Comparing Show Sizes
31
    Table 2   Last Back Heights
32
    Table 3   Joint Measurements, Paris Point System
33
    Table 4   Joint Measurements, Metric System
34
    Table 5   Joint Measurements, English Inch System
35
Part D, Designing and Making Wooden Heel Blocks
36
    Designing
36
    Cutting the Shape of the Heel
37
    Making a Sanding and Polishing Wheel
38
          Electric Motor
38
          Suitable Wood for the Wheel
38
          Making the Wheel
39
          Finishing the Wheel
40
          Sanding Wheel
40
          Suitable Sandpaper
40
          Fixing the Sandpaper
40
          Polishing and Buffing Wheel
40
    Glossary of Terms
42


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Walrus Shoe & Leather, Co.,
Manufacturers of the finest Period and Theatrical Footwear, by Larry Waller, Delavan, WI USA
HomeAbout, FAQ, Links, Policies, Services, Shipping, HCC, Site Map; Lasts: 7000, 4500, 4000, 3086, 1200, 1100, 900, 865, 503/M, 500, 483, 130, 9/Kids, Bonnie; Jewelry: Charms, Earrings, Lapel Pins, Tie Tacks; Books: by George Koleff, Shoe and Boot Design Manual, Last Design & Making Manual, How to Make Ugg Boots, also the Dictionary of Leather Working Tools by R.A. Salaman, Handmade Shoes for Men by Lászlo Vass and Magda Molnár, Shoes by Linda O'Keeffe. Hand Tools, Machines, Findings/Components