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Preface
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iii
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About the Author
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v
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Introduction
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vi
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Table of Contents
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vii
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Part A, General Information
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1
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Methods of Shoe Designing
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1
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Tool and Aids
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1
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Foot and Last Measurements
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2
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Making the Foot Outline
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2
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Taking the Foot Measurements
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3
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Shoe and Last Sizes
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5
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Geometric Method of Shoe Designing
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6
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Part B, Shoe Designs
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13
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Men’s Derby Shoe
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13
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Men’s Derby with Decorated Quarters
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26
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Men’s Oxford Design
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29
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Men’s Oxford with Decorated Quarters
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33
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Men’s Shoes with Side Buttons
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36
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Men’s Shoes, Brogue Style
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41
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Men’s Slip-on Shoes
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45
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Men’s Slip-on Shoes with a Saddle
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52
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Men’s Sandals Cut in One Piece
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55
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Sandals Using the Veldrschoen Method
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57
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Ladies’ Shoe Designs
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60
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Ladies’ Shoes, Derby Design
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64
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Ladies’ Shoes, Oxford Style
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67
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Ladies’ Oxford with Wing Cap and Counter
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70
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Ladies’ Shoes with Single Strap, Oxford Vamp
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74
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Ladies’ Shoes with Single Strap, Court Shoe Vamp
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76
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Ladies’ Shoes with Double Strap, Oxford Vamp
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78
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Ladies’ Court Shoes, High Cut
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80
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Ladies’ Court Shoes, Low Cut
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83
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Ladies’ Slippers
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85
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Ankle High Slippers
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89
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House Slippers
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93
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Part C, Boot Designs
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96
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Ankle Boots, Constructing the Standard
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96
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Derby Boots
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99
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Balmoral Boots
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104
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Ankle Boots, Side Buttons
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108
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Columbus Boots
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112
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Elastic Sided Boots
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116
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Elastic Sided Boots with Vamp
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119
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Derby Hiking Boots with Full Vamp and Bellow Tongue
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121
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Hiking Boots Cut in One Piece
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126
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Ski Boots with Flap Cut in One Piece
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130
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Football Boots
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135
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Shoes for Light Athletics
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138
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Ladies’ Ankle Boots with Side Openings
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141
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Ladies’ Boots Half Height
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145
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Ladies’ Boots ¾ Height with Side Buttons
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147
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Skating Boots
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151
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Hunting and Motorcycle Boots
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155
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Knee Boots
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160
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Dress Knee Boots
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170
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Western Cowboy Boots
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176
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Ladies’ Boots, Western Style
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182
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Ladies’ Zip-up Knee Boots
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186
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Fisherman’s, or Thigh Boots
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190
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Napoleon Boots
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193
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Part D, Alternative Designing Methods
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195
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Ankle Boots, Constructing the Standard Copying a Shoe Design from a Picture
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195
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Modifying Lasts
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198
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Last Copying Methods
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199
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Combining the Last Copy Method with the Geometric Method
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204
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Moccasin Style Shoe
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206
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Part E, Additional Information
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212
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Pattern Grading Methods
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212
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Tables
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221
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Formulate for Calculating Foot Measurements
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226
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Glossary of Terms
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227
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